Afghan coral, shell, and silver beads and pendants.
Robert K. Liu
In ancient times, as it is today, Afghanistan was the source of the world’s most beautiful lapis lazuli. But other stones including carnelian, crystal, serpentine, jaspers and various quartz hardstones were also cut and polished in Afghanistan.
Metalworking, too, has a long history in Afghanistan and several different nomadic groups evolved distinctive beads and pendants. Among these the most famous are the Turkoman or Turkmen who produced a stunning array of jewelry for humans and animals featuring silver, often with fire-gilding, set mostly with carnelian stones.
Ongoing warfare has severely impacted everyone in Afghanistan, harming among other things, all parts of the bead industry from mining to beadmaking. Today, many traditional Afghan beads that reach western markets are produced by refugees in Pakistan. Among the most popular are replicas of ancient stone beads from the region in semi-matte carnelian, lapis, turquoise, and a green serpentine we know as olive jade.
